There is something in the air. Something that was hard wired in my memory. It may have been a year ago, but I remember this smell. It was the brooding heat of summer, slowly incubating, for this very moment. It led me through the wild, ancient forests, the smell getting stronger as my nose led me to this very tree. I got what I wanted, without saying a word.
For Allegra and her sisters in Tuscany, autumn only meant one thing. Truffles. Pungent, succulent jewels, that are indulgent beyond words. Wild boars are hard wired to find them. And once they find them, you might not have a chance to get your hot little hands on them; such is their determination to have it all. If it wasn’t for their ever vigilant owners, there would be no truffle left for us this evening. Actually, you will never hear the end of it, such are squeals of delight.
In front of Via Quadronno the wild boar is proudly hanging on the shingles. It may be Allegra herself. In Northern Italy, in places like Piedmont and Lombardy, wild boars can only mean one thing, and that is the best food your nose can find.
This smart eatery dishes out bistro style fare during the day and more substantial meals for dinner. For lunch I had the pasta of the day set (¥1,000), which today was layered with chunky juicy chicken thigh filets, semi dried tomatoes tossed in for flavor, and topped with a bitter rocket salad, one that speaks adult food all over it, though the chicken filets would keep the child in you wanting for more.
On the side was a simple but fresh slivers of carrot and what looks like Lolla Rosa lettuce, glistening under the homemade olive oil based vinaigrette. Lunch at this cafe, which looks more like a relaxed Mediterranean bistro, is all about simple, healthy fare with a minimum of flourish. Their panini (from ¥950), for example, can be ordered with the minimum of ingredients, with just the best bread, Mozzarella cheese and homemade sauce.
La Madunina is another popular selection, with prosciutto that is full of flavor, well balanced by the olive paste, tomatoes and melted Mozzarella cheese. You can tell they are cheese fans, with the careful matching of Brie, Camembert, Fontana and Mozzarella cheese with the different Panini selections.
As you slow down in the late afternoon, why not enjoy the cheese selection on its own or with a glass of fine wine. The stravecchio Parmesan cheese, aged to perfection after 24 months, is deep in color, with white salt like crystals, giving a crunchy counterpoint to the cheese. Also, as the milk sugar caramelizes, savor the aftertaste that is nutty and reminiscent of tropical fruits.
On the other hand, the dinner menu rises to its sense of occasion, true to its sophisticated roots in Milan and New York. The pasta menu is almost identical to that in New York, but at nearly half the price. The Carbonara, with Spaghetti sauteed in a thick sauce with bacon, egg and a touch of cream is just ¥1,300, while the Risotto of the Day, with slow cooked Carnaroli Rice and Parmigiano a snip at the same price. The mains on the other hand, include Balsamic Braised pork (¥1,380), or the Confit of duck at ¥1,850.
Their wine list is pricey, but reflects the high quality of French and Italian wines at prices less than those in New York or Sydney. The 2009 Dolianova Montesicci from Sardinia (¥3,480) is refreshing with a bouquet of grapefruit and lychee that is highlighted with fresh and spicy notes, making it suitable for seafood and white meat dishes.
The owners here take its heritage very seriously. Since first opening in the Upper East Side, its simple menu of Panini and coffee had rave reviews, so don’t be surprised if Katie Holmes and Siri pop in for a pick me up. Now we have the opportunity to try it in Tokyo, with virtually the same menu as New York.
Via Quadronno is located in Onden Shopping Street. Onden used to be the old name for Harajuku, but the new name could easily be Little Italy. The brick paved walkway winds its way west of and parallel to Cat Street and meets up at Omotesando dori, the Champs Elysee of Tokyo. Just 50 meters from the posh end is Harajuku Bell Pier, a modern white gallery whose steps may lead you on an impromptu game of hide and seek, such is the vivacious atmosphere permeating from the wine bars and cafes in the area. The area is popular with fashionistas and well-dressed preppy university students alike, and you can watch them go by from the wood framed floor to ceiling windows that fold out to take in the night breeze.
